Later in the afternoon, Tucker and I headed over to Germantown to meet Vivek at Tailor. The restaurant name has significance: Tailor is both Vivek’s grandfather’s last name and the profession of his grandparents. The space feels more like a home than a restaurant. The square dining room has an open kitchen on one side and dining tables on the other. A large chandelier, originally owned by Vivek’s father, Tarun Surti, hangs from the ceiling. One wall is full of plastic tubs of spices: dust-colored chat masala, green cardamom, bright red mace, tan cinnamon sticks, golden-orange turmeric, fiery-orange Kashmiri chili powder, and more.
A flat-screen TV hangs on another wall. It feels out of place until it is explained — on the nights that Vivek can’t be at the restaurant, the team will play a video of him telling the stories behind the dishes. As the team learned, that digital experience is not as good as the real thing. It is hard to replicate Vivek, who has a linebacker’s physique, salt-and-pepper beard, and warm smile.
Vivek grew up in Nashville, studied political science at Vanderbilt, and admits he never expected to open Tailor — let alone any restaurant. Early in his career, he worked in communications and hosted dinner parties for fun on the side. “I am not trained in restaurants and never worked in one other than my own,” he said. “Cooking was my creative outlet.”
In 2011, though, Vivek launched a pop-up at a Nashville farmer’s market, serving five courses for $50. With each course, he told a story. He wanted diners to try kimchi, Ethiopian and Greek food, BBQ, you name it. He cooked them all so people would know about them. But while the food was good, Vivek’s culinary narrative pulled so much material from others that it left out one key ingredient: his own story.