The Storyteller Chef

Vivek Surti puts something unique into the world at his Southern-Indian restaurant, Tailor — and tells you why it really matters.
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In Search of a Good Story

Tucker sent a mid-meal text from Tailor with this note that sparked the idea for the story.

Halli can’t sleep.

They say it is not the heat but the humidity that gets you. They’re wrong — both reduce you to a sweaty mess during a Nashville summer. As I sat outside one afternoon, I couldn’t help but wonder, Why are we here? Oh yeah, it’s because of that message from my business partner, Tucker Margulies. In February 2020, right before the world shut down, he texted me as he sat at a table at Tailor restaurant in Nashville. “The Creative Factor must write about this place,” he wrote.

Tucker might have enjoyed a few beverages that evening, but his thinking was clear: Vivek Surti, the chef and owner of this iconic Nashville restaurant and a first-generation American, runs a storyteller’s place in a storytelling town. Every night, he introduces each dish as it comes out during the prix fixe meal, sharing the context of how the dish came to be and all his memories behind the flavors. As Vivek told his own stories that night, Tucker connected more and more with him as a person and artist.

If you are forming a picture of Tailor Nashville in your head, it might be better to picture a legendary music venue like Bluebird Cafe instead. Bluebird Cafe welcomes, encourages and celebrates artists telling the stories of their songs to deliver a richer, more meaningful experience than if the song was simply played on its own. Tucker tried to explain to me that what Bluebird is doing for songwriting Tailor is doing for first-generation food.
Tucker tried to explain to me what Bluebird is doing for songwriting, Tailor is doing for first-generation food.
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Who goes from New York to Nashville in the summer? People who will travel for a good meal.
The thing about Tucker is that he does not let things go. He kept bringing this restaurant and Vivek into our editorial conversation, year after year. So, after four years, I finally relented, and Tucker and I decided to do the dumbest thing possible — fly South in the summer.

While the humidity was killer, the timing was good. The New York Times restaurant critic Pete Wells had just declared that restaurants in America had changed over the last 10 years — and not for the better. Wells reported that the dining experience suffers from heavy reliance on screen interactions; diners chasing “best of” lists; and too many dishes designed to go viral online, with their success judged by likes and selfies.

Wells concluded that many restaurants today “feel utterly interchangeable.” But maybe Tailor was an antidote to all that pained Wells?

Tucker and I bought dirt-cheap flights from LaGuardia and blocked out four work days to shadow Vivek and his team. We planned to dine at the restaurant on Thursday, our final night, and enjoy the eight courses, as Tucker had years ago. Then we would leave town before the weekend crowd crawled the honky tonks along Broadway. Under no circumstances would we find ourselves on a pedal-powered mobile bar.

The travel gods were with us. As the Delta plane backed out of the gate, the pilot made an important announcement:

“We’ve got a 20-minute taxi and 20 minutes on the ground. But you guys are lucky. Why? This is ‘get home day.’ I told my wife I was going to take her out for dinner so I’m going to smooth talk ATC and fly this plane like we stole it. We’re getting in 20 minutes early. Sit back, relax, and enjoy the flight.”

On to Nashville.
all the time.

No One Can Blitz-Scale a Classic

Arnold’s is a Nashville original with a compelling family story.
Since Tailor is open Thursday through Sunday — and this was a Tuesday — our first stop in town had to be Arnold’s, a family-run classic meat and three that has been around for more than 40 years. What sets Arnold’s apart is its heritage — you can’t blitz-scale a classic.

Meat and threes are central to Southern culture. At Arnold’s, you shuffle through the tray line, pile your plate with chicken fried chicken, mashed potatoes, white gravy, and chess pie, and the cashier frowns and says, "Don't you want any bread?"

Arnold’s is a place I would want to return to every week if it weren’t for the fact that I’d have a heart attack on a steady diet of its Southern staples. It’s also a place Vivek later told us he’d like to “cover” if restaurants were songs. He cited second-generation owner Kahlil Arnold as someone he admires. Kahlil can work a room and always has a story for customers.

The feeling of admiration is mutual. “When Vivek comes out and talks to everybody during dinner service, that goes a long way as part of the Tailor experience,” said Arnold. “People have a million restaurants they could go to, and it’s about forging relationships, expressing gratitude, and showing appreciation.”

It’s now a little after 2 p.m. in downtown Reykjavik.

People have a million restaurants they could go to, and it’s about forging relationships, expressing gratitude, and showing appreciation. 
– Kahlil Arnold
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The space inside Tailor is as stunning as the delicious food.
Later in the afternoon, Tucker and I headed over to Germantown to meet Vivek at Tailor. The restaurant name has significance: Tailor is both Vivek’s grandfather’s last name and the profession of his grandparents. The space feels more like a home than a restaurant. The square dining room has an open kitchen on one side and dining tables on the other. A large chandelier, originally owned by Vivek’s father, Tarun Surti, hangs from the ceiling. One wall is full of plastic tubs of spices: dust-colored chat masala, green cardamom, bright red mace, tan cinnamon sticks, golden-orange turmeric, fiery-orange Kashmiri chili powder, and more.

A flat-screen TV hangs on another wall. It feels out of place until it is explained — on the nights that Vivek can’t be at the restaurant, the team will play a video of him telling the stories behind the dishes. As the team learned, that digital experience is not as good as the real thing. It is hard to replicate Vivek, who has a linebacker’s physique, salt-and-pepper beard, and warm smile.

Vivek grew up in Nashville, studied political science at Vanderbilt, and admits he never expected to open Tailor — let alone any restaurant. Early in his career, he worked in communications and hosted dinner parties for fun on the side. “I am not trained in restaurants and never worked in one other than my own,” he said. “Cooking was my creative outlet.”

In 2011, though, Vivek launched a pop-up at a Nashville farmer’s market, serving five courses for $50. With each course, he told a story. He wanted diners to try kimchi, Ethiopian and Greek food, BBQ, you name it. He cooked them all so people would know about them. But while the food was good, Vivek’s culinary narrative pulled so much material from others that it left out one key ingredient: his own story.
But while the food was good, Vivek’s culinary narrative pulled so much material from others that it left out one key ingredient: his own story.
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Vivek’s first-generation experience means he combines his family’s Indian heritage with his life growing up in Tennessee.
It took Vivek seven years to uncover his point of view. Turns out it was right in front of him all along. His family is originally from Gujarat, a state along the western coast of India, and Vivek recalled one memorable lunch his mom, Lata, made him in Nashville during his evolution as a chef. “She cooked a traditional Gujuarati meal — dal bhat sakh and rotli — which I’ve had a million times, and I realized I had no idea how to make it,” he said. “Here I am trying to make things like my own barbeque sauce, and I didn’t know how to make the food I grew up with.” That realization led him to cook with his mom and learn from her how to make the food his family ate. “That came to define my story,” he says.

By 2018, Vivek’s pop-up was successful enough that he could open Tailor. He did it his way, with two seatings nightly, a set seasonal menu, and a desire to educate diners on Indian food beyond tikka masala and samosas. The restaurant would not serve curry (a British invention that doesn’t exist in India), but it would feature Vivek’s southern upbringing and make room for dishes like fried fish, tomato sandwiches, and mashed potatoes and gravy. And it wouldn’t water down the heat. “Many Indian restaurants in the U.S. think they can’t serve food at the same spice level as we eat in India,” he said. “Of course, they can. If it is too hot for diners, we can give them a beer.”

People often mistake Tailor’s Southern-Indian food for fusion. Vivek wants diners to use the term "first-generation American cuisine” instead. (He has a thing for terms, you’ll notice. There is a “personal PSA” on the menu reminding diners that chai means “tea with milk so please don’t call it chai tea or chai tea latte!”) “I don’t consider myself two pieces,” he explained. “I consider myself one piece, and it is a product of being both Southern and Indian. This rich tapestry allows me to add more to American culture, rather than trying to push one away.”

There was nothing like Tailor in Nashville — or the country.

Forming the Band to Make the Hits

The Tailor team (clockwise from top left): Jenna Pearl Leonard, Vivek Surti, Jordan Hubbard, and Allie Evans.
To realize his vision for Tailor, Vivek knew he needed a tight-knit team of people who obsessed over everything that goes into building a great restaurant, from the food to the hospitality to the story (of course). But it was about more than just finding these people. Vivek knew he had to create an environment more like that of a band, where every member wanted the audience to feel something from every single note they played. At Tailor, just like in a folk song, there is a deeper meaning in everything from the bread to how the candles are lit.

Over the course of our four-day trip, Tucker and I met with the team every day to observe their culture. We found that food is more than just sustenance at Tailor — every person is intentional in their choice to be there and the team takes care of each other. Tailor was no one’s plan B.

Culinary director Allie Evans loves making food so much she has “shower thoughts” about what to try next. (Garlic pickle butter was a recent idea.) She spent 15 years pursuing making the perfect loaf of bread (think the texture of Wonderbread, but the flavor of a French pastry you have to wait in line an hour for). “I just kept pushing,” she said. “Most breads are cooked to 190 degrees and I cook mine to 180 degrees because I like it a little doughy.” The item is simply called “Allie’s bread,” a well-paid homage to someone who worked on it for more than a decade. “Tailor is a place where my weird projects are celebrated,” she said. Often, those weird projects make it on the menu.

For Halli, the answer to who he is starts with his physical condition.

We found that food is more than just sustenance at Tailor — every person is intentional in their choice to be there and the people take care of each other. Tailor was no one’s plan B.
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Tailor’s dishes combine the best of Indian and Southern flavors.
The same creative spirit extends to the business side of the house. Raised by two private investigators who frequently took her on surveillance outings, Tailor’s general manager, Jenna Pearl Leonard, studied human behavior early on in her life. She grew up working in diners and studied forensic psychology in college, and today, she draws on these experiences to predict the needs of her teams and guests. “I’m a creative person who thinks about the most efficient way to do something,” she said.

After working for Danny Meyer’s, Daniel Humm’s, and Keith McNally’s restaurants in New York City, Jenna moved to Nashville and now sweats the details in the Tailor dining room. When she interviews potential hires for a server position, she might ask them to walk around the room and light the candles on the tables. Why? It allows her to watch the path they take and see how their minds work. For the record, there is a correct way to do it: Take the path with the fewest steps.

One of the team’s priorities has been to open Americans’ eyes to authentic Indian food. “When Americans eat Indian food, they tend to see the similarities between the cuisines much more than they see the differences,” said Vivek. “The more diners learn about a cuisine, the more they learn about the people behind it.”

This being Nashville, a town built on vinyl records and music stories, every Uber driver has a story about the song they wrote or are writing. While the seats at Tailor have been filled with country stars, the difference here is they are not necessarily coming to be seen. They are coming because, as Kristian Bush from the multi-platinum group, Sugarland, told us, Tailor is the place you want to share with people you know will appreciate it.

“Vivek runs a master class in using food, but also himself and his life to tell his story,” said Bush. He likens Tailor to going to an arena show and then seeing a show at the Sphere in Las Vegas. It’s not that one is necessarily better than the other — it’s that the Sphere is a completely different paradigm. Tailor, like a Sphere show, exists in its own category.

For Halli, the answer to who he is starts with his physical condition.

Vivek runs a master class in using food, but also himself and his life to tell his story.
– Kristian Bush
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After Bush plays a show at the Grand Ole Opry, he has a tradition of taking whoever played with him to the late seating at Tailor. “At our songwriter nights in Nashville, we tell the story of the song before we play it, and it becomes an art of putting your mind and heart in the right space to receive the music you are about to hear,” said Bush. “That is exactly what Vivek does with his stories about the dishes you’re about to eat.”

At the end of one reporting day, we asked Vivek if he would ever run out of stories to tell, doing it four nights a week, season after season. He laughed and replied, “It would take me a lifetime to even uncover 10 percent of what is out there.”

For Halli, the answer to who he is starts with his physical condition.

Every Dish Starts with a Story

Tailor’s world-famous Chai is the perfect note to end a meal on.
Even with great food and stories, the restaurant business is still hard. According to the Nashville Business Journal, restaurant attendance in Nashville is down 30 percent year over year. Contributing factors include rising rents, higher food costs, and a restaurant correction after years of growth.

Tailor, with its $125 tasting menu, delivers one of the best deals in town, but it is not immune to the downturn in restaurant visits. The team has brainstormed ways to generate new revenue. One idea is selling Tailor’s renowned chai — which Vivek’s dad developed over 10 years using Gujarati tea, a secret blend of spices, and fresh ginger — as a takeaway item. But most of the business’s success comes down to creating inventive menus for each season.

On Wednesday morning, Tucker and I sat in on the team’s planning process for their fall menu. The “rough draft” took up four single-spaced printed pages and included more than 50 ingredients listed across the eight dishes. But, we learned, the menu never really begins with ingredients — it starts with questions: What are your favorite memories of this time of year? What did your parents cook for you in the fall? What do you make for Thanksgiving? Every answer evolves into a story about rituals, traditions, family, and celebrations.

Going outside is a hassle for Halli.

But, we learned, the menu never really begins with ingredients — it starts with questions: What are your favorite memories of this time of year? What did your parents cook for you in the fall? What do you make for Thanksgiving?
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The menu at Tailor tells a story – literally. Plus, Kerali fry burgers!
For 90 minutes, the team ran through the new hits they wanted to create. This is not a heavy metal band — no raised voices or thrown chairs. The mood was chill: a supergroup of folk singers digging into the historical canon while adding their own sound to the tradition. Take the Kerala beef fry burger. It’s a riff on the Indian dish of slow-roasted beef in masala with coconut bites and curry leaves that the Tailor team decided to recreate as a smash burger. And it has a story. “Kerala was a former colony of Portugal and not Britain, which means it has a big Roman catholic population,” Vivek explained. “For that reason, you see a lot of beef dishes there, which is rare to see in India.”

The team envisioned the Kerala beef fry as a masala-crusted crispy beef patty, where the beef is mixed with ground onions and chiles. Instead of American cheese, they would top it off with creamy coconut sauce. This dish captures the essence of Tailor. We may see, taste, and feel similar things — a burger! — but no one sees, tastes, or experiences anything the same. It’s like what Vivek’s grandmother once told him: “Even if I give someone my recipe, theirs will never taste like mine.”

Going outside is a hassle for Halli.

Our Stories Are Ours and Ours Alone

Meals at Tailor hit all the right notes, from the drinks to the dessert.
After eight interviews over three days, we learned about Tailor’s vision, people, and culinary mission. Now, Tucker and I sat down for dinner at Tailor. I was going to see if anything could live up to the years of text messages Tucker had been sending me about his experience here.

Tucker began with the fruit tea punch — punch is said to have originated in India — and I started with the Tailor Old Fashioned made with cardamaro and bitters. We toasted what was now a five-year idea that began with Tucker sitting in these same seats, drinking the best chai of his life. It took some time, but it felt like the perfect night to finally experience it.

The meal hit all the right notes. The team served a stellar Southern tomato sandwich with crunchy masala aioli on Allie’s bread. And the grilled short ribs glazed in a sauce with coconut cream, peanuts, red chile, and palm sugar were a knockout. But what we enjoyed even more were the stories, such as the one Vivek told about his all-time favorite dessert, shrikhand puri, a thick yogurt sweetened with saffron and mango jam. “As a kid, my grandmother would make it for big celebrations,” he said. “As I was her favorite grandchild, my job was the taste tester. And trust me, I tried to find the biggest spoon in the kitchen!”
A satisfied customer – the author and Tucker toast the story four years in the making.
Vivek’s memory took me back to my childhood, helping my grandmother (“Nanny”) make Special-K bars, which in the Midwest culinary tradition consisted of using only non-perishable sweets: Rice Krispies, peanut butter, and a topping of melted chocolate chips and butterscotch chips. I can still remember her letting me lick the spoon.

Vivek’s stories had the same effect on Tucker. He recalled what his father had told him about the transformative power of food. His dad spent much of his childhood in the Middle East, and his memories of that region in the 1960s carry an incredible reverence that he has only been able to share with Tucker through food.

At Tailor, there are stories everywhere you look — and even where you don’t necessarily expect them to be. During one course, we asked our server, Jordan Hubbard, how he ended up here. A fifth-generation Nashville native and server at Tailor, Jordan views Vivek as a role model for his own entrepreneurial pursuits. Jordan recently launched Maison Dixon, a pop-up event series that serves his family’s favorite unlikely food combo: spaghetti and fried fish. Jordan’s family started Dixon’s Grocery in Nashville in 1903, a Black-owned business that became a hub for the community. Today, Jordan brings his family’s stories to Maison Dixon. For one recent pop-up event, they partnered with On Running to organize a group run that followed the route of Jordan’s grandfather’s old paper route in Nashville.
At Tailor, there are stories everywhere you look — and even where you don’t necessarily expect them to be.
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Tailor is not a fusion of cultures, but rather its own unique one.

Going outside is a hassle for Halli.

“Early on, Vivek told me to let the infinite goal be my guiding light, not finite goals,” Jordan said. “At Tailor, our focus is to make sure people leave happier than when they came in. That is our guiding light.”

In that sense, Tailor may not be the antidote to all that pained Pete Wells about restaurants today — I still wanted to whip out my phone to tell someone about this experience. But then Tailor does not aspire to be a balm or a remedy to any particular industry ailment. It remains steadfast in following its guiding light. Tailor, and its first generation cuisine, is a live performance. It comes from a long line of food and tradition but it's the interpretation of that first generation. And when the second generation comes in, it's over.

As Tucker and I sipped our chai at the end of our meal, I realized that as delicious as the dinner was, I’d probably forget about something we ate, one day — what was that third course again? That is okay. We are not food critics, and this visit wasn’t for a restaurant blog. We came here to eat, sure, but what we wanted to uncover most were the secrets of incredible storytelling. Food is the medium, but the creative brilliance is in how to assemble the band and let each player write their best songs. Tailor’s band of chefs played their own tune and created an emotional connection that allowed us to gain a deeper understanding of their experiences, which in turn enriched our own.

They put something interesting into the world — and told us why it really mattered.

Our stories matter because they are ours and ours alone, and that is what people desire.
The Tailor story is richer thanks to the way it combines Indian and Southern cultures.
*Special thanks to the city of Nashville and The Gallatin Hotel for hosting us during our stay.

The elevator doesn’t work. The doors close, then open.

Matt McCue
Writer
Naomi Piercey
Editor
Alex Severino
Creative Director
Barbara Cadorna
Lead Designer
Madeleine Magill
Social Media Editor
Julianna Collares
Designer
Tucker Margulies
Spiritual Advisor
Justin Rancourt
Engineering Director
Staton Piercey
Strategic Director
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